After all the gifts have been unwrapped and the Christmas tree dragged to the curb, millions of Americans face the same dilemma: what to do with the poinsettia. Do you chuck it in the trash with the used wrapping paper, or do you grant it a reprieve and try to keep it alive until next Christmas?

If I had to guess, I would say most people don’t want to fool with their poinsettias after Christmas. But these plants are actually quite easy to keep alive. Forcing them to bloom for next Christmas takes a little extra work. But even without blooms, the foliage, especially of the variegated varieties, can make for a nice houseplant.

If you decide to give your poinsettia a fighting chance, begin by trimming it back to about eight inches after the blooms fade. Keep it in bright, but not direct, light and refrain from fertilizing. When the outside temperature is staying above 55 degrees, the plant can be moved outside to a partly shady location where it will be protected from harsh wind and rain. After planting, start fertilizing about every three weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer.

If you plan to force blooms, don’t do any pruning after August. Around Oct. 1, start giving the plant 14 hours of total darkness a day, with a nighttime temperature of about 60 to 70 degrees. Total darkness can be achieved by putting a box over the plant.

Poinsettias require 6 to 8 hours of sun a day. During the forcing process, continue to fertilize but stop as soon as the plant blooms.

Amaryllis is another holiday plant that leaves people guessing as to what to do with it after blooming. It, too, can quite easily be convinced to bloom Christmas after Christmas.

As soon as it is done blooming, pinch off the flowers so the plant doesn’t waste energy producing seeds. After the leaves die back, cut the stalk to 2 to 4 inches. Keep the plant in a sunny spot, water and fertilize once or twice a month. In spring, it can be moved outside to a place where it gets nearly full sun.

To force blooms, stop watering in late summer or early fall. Remove any yellowing foliage and place it in a cool area. Come November, bring it out into light and begin watering again. Before long you should find it producing another beautiful bloom.

Last but not least is Christmas cactus. It will thrive under bright, but indirect sunlight. It appreciates humidity, which can be achieved with a weekly misting. And it likes its roots to have the opportunity to dry out, so be sure not to overwater.

During the summer, Christmas cactus can be fed with a water-soluble fertilizer every other week. Come fall, trim it back a bit and put it where it’ll receive 12 hours of darkness a day with a temperature between 60 and 65 degrees. Keep it in these conditions until buds form, then move it into the light and prepare for a spectacular show.